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My 5 most beautiful off-piste cross-country ski trips of all time
7 minutes
Off-piste cross-country skiing is mainly done on unmarked trails, using sturdy cross-country skis with steel edges. This discipline is also called Nordic cross-country skiing or backcountry skiing, not to be confused with ski touring.
Just like touring skis, off-piste cross-country skis have steel edges, generally full length, which allow us to slide down slopes in powder or on hard snow. Unlike touring skis, our skis have a camber like a classic cross-country ski, allowing a grip wax to be attached which allows us to climb almost all slopes without the use of climbing skins. Without climbing skins, we obtain constant gliding, even when going uphill, thus taking advantage of the slightest false flat and small descents to cover distances that would be unimaginable with touring skis.
In Quebec, we have the great pleasure of skiing on the most beautiful Nordic ski networks in the world! The Laurentians heritage trail network, Gaspésie Park, Grands Jardins, Monts Valin, Charlevoix, Quebec, Gatineau Park and some pretty hideaways in Estrie are all must-sees. In descending order, here are my favorites, my 5 favorite Nordic cross-country ski routes in Quebec. Please note that these journeys involve a steep gradient!
5. Club Rapido (in Sept-Îles)
I have lasting memories of the expert loops of this cross-country ski club on the other side of the world, on our North Shore with its endless winter. These trails are not officially off-piste, but since it snows there faster than the tracing machine is capable of providing, it is common for the skier to make a fresh trace on a stormy day. I frequented these trails in the middle of 1975-1979… what a beautiful country we have!
4. Sentiers des Caps (complete crossing between Baie-St-Paul and St-Féréol-des-Neiges)
This narrow and winding path is not specifically dedicated to off-piste skiing, but has been used on a few occasions by the Traversée des Laurentides and which sometimes goes off the beaten track to discover other beautiful regions. The views of the river from the top of the cliffs are spectacular, as are the narrow and winding descents. For seasoned skiers, the day after a good snowfall!
3. Morin-Heights Nordic Network
It is difficult for me to make just one choice in the Laurentians, as there are so many interesting trails. Those of Ste-Agathe-Sud, Val-David/Val-Morin, Mont-Roland and Sainte-Lucie-des-Laurentides are all very beautiful, and absolutely worth doing at least once each, every winter.
Located in Morin-Heights, my recommended route is from route 329 (at the bottom of the Bouleaux parking lot). You must first climb the Swiss trail, then turn off onto Lover’s Leap. After Corbeau, go back and forth to the viewpoint at the top of Rapide-Blanc. On the way back, we continue on Rapide-Blanc until the end. At the Viking W crossroads, take this path on the right to return to Route 329, over hill and valley. But be careful, it's not over! You must then cross the river (via the bridge, if the ice is questionable) to go find JRJ, towards the south to reach the intersection of the Auberge trail, which you must take on the right to end up at your starting point. I rate this route at an intermediate level with some challenging sections.
Distance: approximately 15 km
2. The intercenter trail (between Lake Archamault in St-Donat and the Nordet parking lot in Lac-Supérieur)
In the full version, this very long day of skiing will take you over 4 major peaks, namely the Black, White, Plateau and Grise mountains, for a total of 35 km and more than 1,300 meters of altitude difference. In the short version, several routes can also be done in a loop, notably through the entrance to Lake Durocher, halfway. Advanced intermediate level / expert level if conditions are difficult.
Distance: 35 km with an elevation gain of 1,300 meters
1. The (half) crossing of the Parc de la Gaspésie (from Mount Logan to the La Boussole parking lot, along Route 299)
Those who visit the Gaspésie park are familiar with the Logan circuit, leaving from the Grandeur Nature village (formerly St-Octave-de-l’Avenir). The crossing that I propose consists of exiting via Lake Cascapédia and the Boussole parking lot rather than returning via the less interesting usual return route. This is done in 5 nights in a refuge: Refuge Huard at Lake Thibault, then at La Chouette or Nyctale at the foot of Mount Logan. On the return, you will then go to the Carouge refuge, at the foot of the Mont des Loupes, and finally to the Mésange, at the foot of the Pic de L’Aube. Depending on your level of skiing and your remaining energy, incredible snowfields will be accessible to you almost everywhere on this course, in my opinion the most beautiful in Quebec!
Norman Pion
Normand Pion has been practicing Nordic skiing since the end of the 1980s, mainly in the Laurentians, but also throughout Quebec. He is a veteran of the legendary TDL (Traversée des Laurentides), with around thirty participations since 1989. Since his retirement from the Desjardins Movement began in 2013, Normand has introduced around a hundred new Nordic skiers over the years through his “discovery outings” and his “real rides”. From April to October, Normand and his partner Hélène become cycle travelers again and travel the world on their loaded tandem. The couple has accumulated 1,705 nights of travel and over 85,000 km traveled in tandem since 2013, in around fifty countries.
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